[分享] 有趣的丹寧文章 from New York Times。

看板Jeans (牛仔褲)作者cezanne (啊)時間19年前 (2006/07/14 13:53)推噓0(0推 0噓 0→)

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http://tinyurl.com/rhgq3 這類文章們近一年來的大意都是有刷紋，破壞處理的褲子正當紅 designer jeans 的市場褲子的產地和勞工的內幕以及同一家工廠其實生產 Levi's 也有 DG，我想這是一個很好的背景故事給之前一串討論牛仔褲品質和價格推文幾個月前有幾篇談 luxurious jeans 和 market 的文章已經找不到不過寫的都差不多這篇倒是沒有談到太多幕後 "價格" 的細節之前有篇德文報導就比較直接也夠狠價格都寫出來以外還揭發(?)所謂"獨一無二人工刷紋"的處理程序很可惜找不到了 orz 原文如下： "Yeah, They Torture Jeans. But It旧 All for the Sake of Fashion. " VEDELAGO, Italy ? Giovanni Petrin remembers well his first efforts at beating up jeans. Italian industrialists had visited Japan years ago to observe how the Japanese washed denim garments with small stones. 争o we took white stones from riverbeds here in the Veneto,?said Mr. Petrin, referring to the northern Italian region where his jeans factory is situated. 戦t destroyed the washing machines, and the jeans.? Only after the Italians learned that the Japanese used pumice did the trick work. Now sales of jeans with the used, worn or beat-up look are booming on both sides of the Atlantic, making battered jeans a case study of the push and pull of global competition, and wrapping Europeans and Americans in more jeans than ever before. They have fanciful American brand names like Diesel, Replay and Seven for all Mankind, but in fact, the real driving forces behind these names are all Europeans, and now they are asserting their design influence as the premium and elite niches of the jeans market are exploding. At the heart of this phenomenon are the artificially aged garments laboriously engineered by Europeans like Mr. Petrin, a compact bearded man of 55, the chief executive of Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili. The Italians, and in large part Martelli, took it to an art form,?said Joe Ieraci, owner of the Blue Hound, a denim consulting firm, describing Martelli旧 techniques for distressing denim. Martelli posted $140 million of revenue in 2005 not by making any of these jeans, but by providing the skills and technology to transform them from new to old-looking. It was largely thanks to those like Mr. Petrin, who helped build the new 団ld?look by combining fresh styling with innovative manufacturing skills (he has a small secret here), that weathered jeans became the object of desire in America旧 $15 billion jeans market. Martelli, uncontested in Europe, has competitors only in the United States and in Japan. Earlier this year, the company, which has four factories in Italy, signed an agreement to build a plant in Morocco with local partners. Last year, the company opened a factory in Turkey. In Romania, Martelli already turns around about 30,000 pairs of jeans a day at its own plant. Mr. Petrin was recently on the verge of signing a deal for a joint venture in California that fell through only after the American partner unilaterally raised the cost of Martelli旧 investment. He has discussed, though unsuccessfully, cooperation with an American competitor, Sights Denim Systems, of Henderson, Ky. America is too big to neglect, he says. Today, about two-thirds of Martelli旧 production is at its Italian factories and a third elsewhere. Mr. Petrin says he can see the day coming when the relationship will reverse, and only design and research and development will remain in Italy. While Italians hold virtually all the jobs designing and marketing Martelli旧 jeans, only a smattering of Italians remain on the shop floor. But the real secret to Martelli旧 success? Chinese labor. Indeed, the real challenge for several years for Martelli has been to find the hands to do the work. Now, most of the 175 workers in one of Martelli旧 hand-crafting factories are Chinese, legal immigrants whom Mr. Petrin praises for their patience and dexterity. He attracted them to work for him after meeting by chance a Chinese fabric dyer. We tried Romanians, and we tried Africans,"he said, 錊None were as good as the Chinese." Mr. Petrin has visited China, which also is by far the biggest jeans market in the world.With its 9,000 employees, Martelli takes jeans manufactured in low-wage countries like Morocco or Turkey and then stylizes them for upmarket clients like Gucci, Armani or Tommy Hilfiger, who sell the finished product. Mr. Petrin旧 client list includes designers like Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Yves Saint Laurent, Calvin Klein and Donna Karan, but also mass-market brands like Levi Strauss, the world旧 biggest jeans maker, the Lee and Wrangler brands of the VP Corporation, Gap and Zara. A stroll through Mr. Petrin旧 factories, which turn out 120,000 items every day, is an encounter with the automated destruction of jeans. In their main factory, with 900 workers, huge washing machines tumble jeans with pumice gravel; workers in face masks slip jeans legs over inflated balloons, which then move robotlike between sets of abrasive plastic brushes that scrub the denim to give it a worn look. Other workers brush creases into the jeans that, because they fan out from the fly, are called whiskers. -- 待續，手酸.... -- ※ 發信站: 批踢踢實業坊(ptt.cc) ◆ From: 70.249.35.254 ※ 編輯: cezanne 來自: 70.249.35.254 (07/14 14:29)